At the start of October, a group of 6 experienced bikers and 3 pillions from the Algarve Senior Bikers (ASB) set off on a tour of southern Andalusia. Riding three BMWs and three Moto Guzzis, they explored the Caminito del Rey (the King's Little Path) and the Sierra Nevada National Park. The 11-day tour included three rest and trekking days. Sunny weather, empty winding roads, and several natural and cultural highlights made the tour an unforgettable experience. Naturally, we seized every opportunity to sample the abundance of Andalusian culinary delicacies wherever we went, such as jamón ibérico (acorn-fed ham from free-range pigs), gazpacho (a cold summer soup made from fresh tomatoes), salmorejo (a creamier version of gazpacho), rabo de toro (oxtail stew) and, of course, fresh fish and seafood.
Photo 1: The group of riders and pillions from the Algarve Senior Bikers at the Guadalahorce water reservoir. From left to right: Thomas, Carina, Detlef, Walter, Johannes, Heidi, Ingo, Hubertus and Alfred.
The group met in Aznalcázar, to the west of Seville, before taking a small ferry across the Guadalquivir River at Coria del Río. After passing through the fertile agricultural plains to the south of Seville, we approached the Caminito del Rey from the north, alongside the beautiful man-made Guadalhorce reservoir. We then spent the night at the Hotel La Garganta in El Chorro, in the province of Málaga. The following day, we had booked a time slot to trek the Caminito del Rey: a world-famous wooden walkway secured to the steep walls of a narrow gorge by iron stanchions. The spectacular 7 km walk through the gorge takes around two hours. While it is not particularly difficult as there are no steep ascents or descents, those with vertigo or a fear of heights may still find it challenging. Our main challenge, however, was the creative makeshift repair of some climbing boots that had somehow disintegrated halfway through the walk.
Photo 2: Set firmly on the steep walls of a river gorge, the Caminito del Rey demands no fear of heights.
After hiking on the Caminito del Rey, we got back on our bikes. We rode along winding, narrow roads through endless olive groves to Antequera and then on to Monachil, located south of Granada. From there, we had perfect access to the steep twisty mountain roads leading up to the Hoya de la Mora. At 2,500 metres, this is the highest accessible parking area before reaching the summits of the Sierra Nevada: Mulhacén and Pico del Veleta at about 3,400 metres.
Photo 3: View from the Sierra Nevada at 2.200 metres towards Granada. From left to right: Alfred, Johannes, Heidi, Hubertus, Ingo, Carina, Thomas and Walter.
After a rest day and some sightseeing in Granada, we drove from north to south through the Sierra Nevada, passing the fertile loess plateau of Guadix and the Puerto de la Ragua pass summit at 2,050 m. We navigated what seemed like 1000 twists and turns on narrow mountain roads, with challenging uphill and downhill hairpin bends that would test even the most experienced riders.
The southern slope of the Sierra Nevada, known as the Alpujarras, is characterised by its picturesque high-altitude villages, such as Trevélez, Pampaneira and Bubión. These villages feature traditional Moorish flat roofs and stepped chimneys. Trevélez, claimed to be the highest village in Spain, sits at an elevation of almost 1,500 metres. We bought some local produce, handicrafts and the famous air-dried ham made from black pigs there.
Photo 4: Trevélez, at the southern slope of the Sierra Nevada mountain range.
After enjoying the Sierra Nevada, we travelled further west and reached Alhama de Granada, a small, historic spa town and hidden gem off the beaten track. Boasting a stunning location on a fertile mountain plateau, it sits at an elevation of around 900 metres above sea level. The Alhama River runs through the town, carving out a deep, dramatic ravine known as the Tajos de Alhama which reaches depths of over 50 metres. The scenery is reminiscent of the spectacular El Tajo Canyon in Ronda. We enjoyed a beautiful, leisurely hike through the canyon and relaxed in the thermal baths to the north of the town, which were already being used by the Romans.
After covering over 1,500 kilometres over ten days, the group arrived in Carmona, a picturesque traditional Andalusian town located 30 kilometres east of Sevilla, for their final stop. After a sumptuous farewell dinner to celebrate the tour's achievements, all the riders and pillions made their way home the following morning.
In 1000 twists and turns through Andalusia, by Walter Kollert
All photos taken by the author
