Smoked salmon produced in the last remaining smokehouse in London is to be given the highly prized European protected name status, joining other prominent delectables such as champagne and Parma ham.
Forman & Son, still in family hands after 110 years, is the only survivor from a host of London smokeries. Its East End factory produces its legendary London Cure which is noted for a delicate and mild flavour much sought after by top chefs.
The award will be the first one for a food made in London. The EU’s PGI scheme is designed to eliminate copycats by obliging products to be made only in the areas where they are named, such as Melton Mowbray pork pies and Wensleydale cheese, and to promote traditional and agricultural activity.
The company was started by Harry Forman who emigrated from Russia in 1905 and owes its distinction to the formulation of a cure to go well with fresh wild Salmon which sometimes made its way to Billingsgate market.
It was this cure formula which differed from many others. Small proportions of rock salt were used but without any sugar before a cold-smoking process. The result was a more mild flavour which contrasted with the stronger ones produced by traditional Scottish smokehouses.
“We are the world’s oldest Scottish salmon smokers and we remain faithful to the principles established by my great-grandfather in 1905,” said Lance Forman.
But the company has not stuck rigidly to just one cure. Over time London Cure has been adapted to varieties which include wasabi and ginger; vodka, chilli and lime; beetroot; and for the holidays there is a cinnamon and orange mixture.
Today Formans receives three tonnes of fresh Scottish salmon six mornings a week. The product can be found in shops ranging from Harrods and Selfridges to Waitrose and Sainsbury’s as well as Ocado and shortly in some Tesco stores.
The British government has said it wants the number of protected food items to grow from 63 to 200 in a move to increase sales and exports.
Applications are in for Birmingham’s balti curry named for the dish in which it is cooked, Welsh laverbread made with cooked seaweed, and Carmarthen ham, the air-dried pork made with the same recipe by five generations of a Welsh family.
1935 The largest salmon ever sold at Billingsgate Fish Market, weighing in at 74lbs. This beauty was sold for 2/10 a lb when typical prices were 2/3.
Louis Forman, Harry Forman’s son, stands behind wearing a black homburg hat.
